You will need:
13" square of single sided fusible interfacing
A fat quarter or approx 20cm x WOF "Light Grey" Prima Homespun (from Spotlight)
Assorted selvedges
Step 1:
Cut the 13" square of interfacing in half diagonally to create two HSTs. Fold each triangle in half and finger press at the centre point. Using a pen (I used a frixion pen) and an acrylic ruler mark 1/4" up from the edge of the interfacing at the centre point (mark this on the non-fusible side). Also place a mark 4" from the top point on both sides. (see marks on image below)
13" square of single sided fusible interfacing
A fat quarter or approx 20cm x WOF "Light Grey" Prima Homespun (from Spotlight)
Assorted selvedges
Step 1:
Cut the 13" square of interfacing in half diagonally to create two HSTs. Fold each triangle in half and finger press at the centre point. Using a pen (I used a frixion pen) and an acrylic ruler mark 1/4" up from the edge of the interfacing at the centre point (mark this on the non-fusible side). Also place a mark 4" from the top point on both sides. (see marks on image below)
Step 2:
Place the acrylic ruler so that the 4" mark and the centre base mark line up along the 1/4" mark on the ruler. Mark this line (this is where you will line up your fabric for a 1/4" seam, and the dots are where the seams should be). Do this for both sides.
Step 3:
I used my interfacing to trace the kite shapes onto my "Light Grey" background fabric. I lined up one of the (red) lines that I'd marked with the straight edge of the fabric, then used my acrylic ruler to cut along the "top corner" of the fabric. Using my frixion pen I marked the points where the remaining red line starts/finishes. I then removed the interfacing (or you could fold it back, but be careful not to cut it!), matched up the two marks with my ruler and cut. Your kite shaped fabric should fit exactly into the kite shape you have drawn on your interfacing. I also confess that I CAREFULLY pressed part of the grey homespun onto the interfacing so that it didn't move around. You don't want to press too close to the edges though, or inadvertently touch the interfacing with the iron.. just saying!
Step 4:
For both of the triangle sections, choose two selvedges that have atleast 3/4" of fabric design (1/2" will show after seam allowance). Place one selvedge right side down with the fabric edge aligned with the "Light grey" background fabric. Sew 1/4" seam. Gently finger press the seam open (or again, CAREFULLY press with the iron, but make sure that you only do along the seam line as you will need to be able to lift the edge of the seam to place the next selvedge under it). Take the second selvedge and repeat on the other side of the kite.
Step 5:
As per Pleasant Home, gently place a selvedge with the fabric edge underlapping the selvedge edge. Make sure that there is enough fabric underlapping, especially on selvedges that have the fuzzy ends. Keep underlapping selvedges until you get close to the end of the triangle. use a scrap piece of fabric to cover each end (also underlapping the final selvedge). Now you can use your iron to press all the selvedges down onto the interfacing to hold them in place.
Step 6:
Top stitch along the edge of the selvedges. Make sure that you have caught the fabric edge of the selvedge underneath. Once all the selvedges have been secured you can turn over the triangle, align your acrylic ruler with the edges of the interfacing and trim down your block. You should now have two gorgeous selvedge triangles!
Step 7:
Place the two triangles right sides together, making sure to match up the grey kite points. Sew 1/4" seam, making sure to pass through the points where the kite points intersect. Fingerpress seam open, then press with your iron from the right side. You will now have a finished 12.5" selvedge spider web block (12" finished in a quilt top). Don't feel that you need to trim the blocks down to 12.5" as I am happy to do that once I've received them.
For both of the triangle sections, choose two selvedges that have atleast 3/4" of fabric design (1/2" will show after seam allowance). Place one selvedge right side down with the fabric edge aligned with the "Light grey" background fabric. Sew 1/4" seam. Gently finger press the seam open (or again, CAREFULLY press with the iron, but make sure that you only do along the seam line as you will need to be able to lift the edge of the seam to place the next selvedge under it). Take the second selvedge and repeat on the other side of the kite.
Step 5:
As per Pleasant Home, gently place a selvedge with the fabric edge underlapping the selvedge edge. Make sure that there is enough fabric underlapping, especially on selvedges that have the fuzzy ends. Keep underlapping selvedges until you get close to the end of the triangle. use a scrap piece of fabric to cover each end (also underlapping the final selvedge). Now you can use your iron to press all the selvedges down onto the interfacing to hold them in place.
Step 6:
Top stitch along the edge of the selvedges. Make sure that you have caught the fabric edge of the selvedge underneath. Once all the selvedges have been secured you can turn over the triangle, align your acrylic ruler with the edges of the interfacing and trim down your block. You should now have two gorgeous selvedge triangles!
Step 7:
Place the two triangles right sides together, making sure to match up the grey kite points. Sew 1/4" seam, making sure to pass through the points where the kite points intersect. Fingerpress seam open, then press with your iron from the right side. You will now have a finished 12.5" selvedge spider web block (12" finished in a quilt top). Don't feel that you need to trim the blocks down to 12.5" as I am happy to do that once I've received them.
This is beautiful! I have been saving my selvedges....
ReplyDeleteooo So glad your getting your practice in with spiderweb blocks....
ReplyDeleteOooh, interfacing, great idea.
ReplyDeleteLOVE this! Congrats on winning a scrap bag from Kate Spain - very exciting!
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